Used Pontoon Boats

Archive for the ‘used pontoon boats’ Category

I have a Johnson outboard motor 94 model, 140 hp, I am having a very hard time starting it, But, once I get it started and it warms up it restarts fine. What could the problem be with the initial starting?

Been like this since you got it?

Most common cause of hard cold start: operator error.

Assuming the primer solenoid described above is operational:

Squeeze primer bulb until firm, open tank vent, lift hi-idle lever full up (unless equipped with "fast-start" feature), push key in and hold it in while turning over to "start" until engine catches.

If she starts to die, punch the key in again just for an instant.

i’ve removed both screw top and bottom,drained just about everything,the drain oil looked very dark and thick. is there another refill area besides the two screw i’ve removed? the oil i filled it with comes back out. any hint how to?

remove both screws, top and bottom, get a cheap squeezie sauce bottle for a dollar from cheap shop, fill with oil and squeeze into bottom hole, fill bottle and do again place finger over bottom hole to prevent oil draining out bottom hole whilst refilling bottle, when oil comes out of top hole, quickly replace bottom screw, then top up oil level from top hole, replace top screw tighten both screws and check for leaks, any good quality outboard gear box oil will do, just ask at your boat shop for best recommendation. just check old oil for metal shavings or water as this would indicate possible problems later on. it would not hurt to purchase extra oil and flush out old oil from top to bottom first. i always do this when i replace and it is surprising how much of the old oil stays in there even after it has been allowed to drain for two hours.

What is the gas to oil ratio for a 28hp Johnson Outboard motor

50:1 ratio on that one,i run mine at 40:1 sometimes,it gives it more power,but the factory recommendation is 50:1 on it and i don’t recommend running a stock engine at any less,mine is built a little,good luck.

Hey guys, thanks for the advice so far, the problem is that I don’t have a credit card and I live in a VERY small african country with no libraries.
I bought the motor second hand as a gift for my husband, but it doesn’t want to work. It’ll start, but then it just stalls. He was so excited about it and I feel like I’ve let him down.

Nobody churns out free marine engine repair manuals, you need expert steps and accurate information which costs money. Which brings me to the wise phrase: "There is no free lunch, someone has to pay."

You can either go with a Clymer’s outboard repair book for your Johnson model and year, or you can get a Seloc one.

Expect to pay $40 to $60 dollars plus tax, and don’t forget about the shipping cost if you buy it online or by phone.

The control box on the boat needs to be replaced. The price to replace the box is around 3 to $400 dollars. With a boat that old am i just wasting my time and money?

It’s difficult to answer this reliably. Depends on the number of hours and overall condition of the rest of the engine. You may fix this and have something else break soon after. My gut feel without knowing it’s history is that your should not invest that much in an old engine like this. Sell it for parts and get a newer used motor that you can test run and know that it is in good shape.

The Loctite people said that none of their products would do it, because of small surface area, heat and water. Is it possible to fibreglass it together successfully? Or, could you offer another idea short of finding a replacement part. Thanks for your help..

Many have tried, and few have been successfully. The thermostat housing and water pump housings are particularly difficult. There are used parts online companies that sell these parts reasonably. Good Luck!

I am assuming that the lever that moves with the throttle is the spark advance lever. If I am wrong please let me know. It is located just under the flywheel on the starboard side of the engine.

there’s another lever on it that adjust the spark advance,you loosen it up and with a 12 volt timing light adjust it to the proper timing mark,then go two degrees advanced on it this way it will run better and get better fuel economy,but the engine has to be idling at he right rpm,s so everything has to be right on it when you do this,i set mine a while back on my old boat,an it took 3 times to actually get it back in the right position,it will change about two degrees when you tighten the rod back down on it,that’s why i said advance it about two degrees that will make up for the amount of play it will have in it,yours may adjust from the bottom rod you mentioned,mine is 74 model so there shouldn’t be too much difference in them,make sure though you do this with the timing light hooked to no-1 plug wire other wise it will be way off,good luck with it.

What is the procedure? Are you supposed to push the key in and hold it? It always runs good after it starts.

Pull out the shift lever, so the boat is in neutral, move it up(for full throttle), then push the key in a few times. make sure you prime the bulb, and then try to start it. If it still doesn’t start, then turn the key while pushing in the key, I also move the throttle back between full and 1/2 while i am doing this…..I am assuming this is an older engine from the ’80’s or early ’90’s.
you do nto want to press in the key everytime you start the engne you will flood it

1978 70hp Johnson outboard motor.

I have three of them in My shed, but You should be able to get one from any boat repair shop in Your home town, they junk out motors all the time..

I have a pontoon boat and want to leave it in front of my cottage on a upstate NY lake. I will drop a heavy weight to the bottom of the lake, but what kinda chain should I use to attach to the weight and then to the buoy? It needs to be strong and mostly rust proff. Also what chain will work best when rubbing on another metal article (the weight)? I guess I need to know what is the strongest chain out there for me to use and not worry about breaking after a few years of underwater use.

The advantage of stainless is that is doesn’t rust, but it does not have the strength of galvanized steel. Another factor is the original cost of stainless. You could probably replace the galvanized several times and still save money.